行至瑞士·卢塞恩(中英文对照)

“琉森幽雅、静谧，碧水轻轻地拍着河岸，柔水在我的脚下流淌……”

——维克多·雨果

也许是吟咏雨果对瑞士卢塞恩（琉森）诗句的记忆，也许是聆听理查德·瓦格纳《纽伦堡的名歌手》旋律，也许是很多对卢塞恩的向往，使我在2017年的秋天，如愿以偿地来到卢塞恩。琉森（Iuzern）是以前的名称，现在被翻译成卢塞恩，它位于琉森湖北岸，是瑞士最美丽、最有灵气的城市之一。

提到卢塞恩，我最先想到的是绝美、幽雅、静谧、音乐、浪漫、极致、奢华……卢塞恩的魅力慰藉了诸多文学艺术大师的心灵，美丽的琉森湖留下了德国作曲家瓦格纳的恋情和传世之作《纽伦堡的新歌手》、《诸神的黄昏》以及歌剧《特里斯坦与伊索尔德》、《齐格弗里特》田园交响曲。法国作家雨果居住过的楼房，至今完好地保存在罗伊斯河北岸，而作曲家瓦格纳的故居则在琉森湖畔，还有一条以他命名的“理查德·瓦格纳路”。

贝多芬在这里留下微醺的月光曲；托尔斯泰的同名小说《琉森》；毕加索在这里创作的大量作品，于是有了毕加索作品收藏馆；美国作家马克·吐温笔下诞生了《浪迹海外》；法国文学家大仲马写下：“琉森是世界上最美的蚌壳中的那颗明珠。”他们的故事和作品，为卢塞恩增添了更多的浪漫色彩。卢塞恩有很多名人故居，并没有被大书特书，卢塞恩以如此平淡的方式摆出了一种派头，意思是，再伟大的人物在这里也只是一个普通市民。我觉得在这方面他们做得有点过头，维克多·雨果等人的故居还应该再宣传一下，但比之于我们常见的那种不分等级便大肆张扬的各色名人故居，这里的淡然方式更让人舒服。其实也正因为这样淡然，才会吸引真正的大师巨匠来安静居住。

卢塞恩的“城市徽章”狮子纪念碑是游客必去的，它由丹麦雕刻家特尔巴尔森设计，旨在纪念在法国大革命中为保护法国国王路易十六及其家族而献身的786名瑞士雇佣兵。这头长10米、高3米多的雄狮，痛苦地倒在地上，折断的长矛插在肩头。这头狮子真让人满心徒叹无奈，一座城市，一头狮子，一个国家，无数战争，一堆伤疤，就这样缠缠绕绕、时断时续地绾接了瑞士的历史。瑞士曾经是特别穷的地方，不能护卫自己，却被雇佣去干涉别人，又很难拒绝，以生命为营生去打仗，经过几百年残酷的战争训练，让瑞士人养成了一种举世罕见的忠诚。因此，罗马教皇从来不对贴身卫士精挑细选，只有一个要求：瑞士兵。现在，除了教皇那里，瑞士早已不向其他地方输送雇佣兵。这是血泊中的惊醒，耻辱中的自省，他们毕竟是老实人，一旦明白就全然割断，不仅不再替别人打仗，自己也不打仗，干脆彻底地拒绝战争，于是他们选择了中立。从此，人家在制造枪炮，他们却制造手表，等到硝烟终于散去，人们定睛一看，只有瑞士设定的指针，游走在世界的手腕上。

一个城市，因为人，拥有了故事。卢塞恩可说是故事堆砌而成的，它之所以迷人，绝对不只因历史而永恒，更是839年的积累，造就它的历史景深。漫步于卢塞恩，总感到时间被留在了古老的过去，铺满石块的路，连接着古老的城墙和中世纪建筑掩映在绿荫之下，像是从遥远的过去窥见当今的风貌。卢塞恩的美，美在幽古；我可以深入赏阅它的历史经纬，随着脚步，踏入古今虚实的界线，走在街巷，会觉得时间变慢，以恍惚的慢板跌入古城的旧时光。在卢塞恩的每一天，我都走读记忆中的文学艺术地景，仔细寻找朱自清笔下的琉森，探访徐志摩言中的景致，体会瓦格纳丰厚而饱满的爱情故事，按书索骥，探访那些早已不是的曾经。

瑞士许多著名城市都是逐水而建，且有着相似的格局：一条大河穿城而过、河湖融汇，于是城市就在河水和湖水的交汇处繁荣起来，卢塞恩就是这样。这里除了水，另一大诱惑就是山，巍峨的皮拉图斯山在卢塞恩周边次第绵延开来。在雪山的映衬下，水边的卢塞恩更显妩媚动人，有一种独特的情调。卡罗伊斯河把卢塞恩分为新老两区，河上共有七座桥，其中有一座是欧洲最古老的木质桥，建于1333年，长约200米，它叫卡贝尔廊桥。这架曲了又曲的旧木桥，傍着一座矮胖的古水塔，倒配了对儿，古桥有顶像廊子，廊分两截，近塔的一截低而窄，那一截却突然高阔起来，仿佛彼此不相干，从桥上走过，发现还是一架老木桥。桥廊顶镶绘有120幅古画，每幅画下有一首德文题诗，描述了瑞士联邦和琉森的历史。卡贝尔廊桥和巍峨险峻的皮拉图斯山，已经成为卢塞恩永远的背景。

卢塞恩的“城市徽章”狮子纪念碑

卢塞恩的山上，有一座冰河公园，从地球的冰河期逐渐形成，阿尔卑斯山终年积雪不化，越堆越多。在底下的渐渐地结成冰，最底下的一层渐渐地滑下来，顺着山势，往谷里流去融汇在琉森湖中。冰河移动的时，遇着夏季，冰的大量地溶化，溶化下来的大水，给地面留下很多冰渍地貌，冰河公园便以这类遗迹得名。站在这里虽然杳茫，当时光景却还能在眼前描画得出，我们人类与那种大自然一比，却未免太微细了。琉森湖的湖水平静而深邃，随着时间的推移和光线的变化，湖面变幻出不同的色彩，璀璨的金黄、梦幻的银白色、神秘的淡紫。湖面上，白色的游船随着风儿在轻轻地摇曳，坐在船头任凭清风拂面，琉森市的城墙、廊桥和大教堂、皮拉图斯山在任何角度都可欣赏，山湖水色是那样的和谐。白云飘来遮挡阳光时，淡淡的薄纱似的水气浮上来，湖面烟波浩渺，岸边建筑如被薄纱笼罩，隐约倒映湖面，如画的风景亦幻亦真。 每年琉森湖畔音乐节，在KKL卢塞恩文化会议中心，都会响起瓦格纳《纽伦堡的歌手》的旋律，卢塞恩具有21世纪的现代化，更具有中世纪所特有的美感和谐及生命力。

卢塞恩是一个钟表之城，不管走在那条街道，抬头就是手表店。橱窗里琳琅满目，精益求精、追求极致的瑞士人，把惊人的创造力全都倾泄到手表上，凡是想得到的，都尽力设法做到。历经百年，也没有把钟表的桂冠让给别人，时尚和艺术从不分家，时尚就是艺术的一部分，艺术是时尚的灵感和起源，瑞士钟表的艺术，提现在匠心独具，炫目大胆，同时坚韧持久，经久不衰。上世纪八十年代，日本和香港的电子表对瑞士手表，造成很大冲击并划分了市场，虽然瑞士手表业也研制出石英表、液晶表，但电子计时技术必然是机械计时技术的天敌，它的方便、准确、廉价已经构成对传统机械表的嘲谑。表面上，机械表还会以自己的历史、品牌嘲谑电子表，但这种嘲谑只是一种伦理性、辈分性的发泄，而电子表对于机械表的嘲谑，看似逆反了伦理程序，却是一种历史必然。假如一百年前的制表师地下有灵，一定不会满意身后的同行，那神情，就像最后一批希腊悲剧演员，或最后一批晚唐诗人，两眼迷茫。他们的出色成就使后代失去了创造的空间，真不知该抱怨谁。

卢塞恩、卡罗伊斯河

卡佩尔木桥外侧，种有色彩艳丽的天竺葵花，远远望去，卡佩尔廊桥如同一条红色飘带，横亘在清澈的罗伊斯河河面上，与桥下悠然戏水的白色天鹅、黑色野鸭互相辉映，构成一幅分外动人的美丽影象。美丽和幽古从未走远，它们就在卢塞恩这片湖区，我无法用工业和现代的标准去衡量这里的一草一木，因为它们本就是一个和你截然不同的世界。你对它念念不忘，因为它倒映着你的向往，奢华也好、极致也罢，都是由它呈现的，你的梦想的样子。

自古以来被人们钟爱的卢塞恩，不仅有风景如画的自然景观，还有深厚的文化积淀。它可以让任何感受其传统文化和现代元素相得益彰的魅力。静谧的湖泊、中世纪鹅卵石的老街、巍峨连绵的雪山，卢塞恩拥有瑞士风景画册上所有元素，给人深刻的印象，动静结合、刚柔相济，是一种洁净含蓄的美，更有人文之韵，让心悄然安静。徜徉在卢塞恩，每一个时刻，每一个角度，都呈现不同的美，只一眼便会永远的停留在记忆的最深处。或许没有什么地方，比这里更浪漫、比这里更让我眷恋。

Travel to Switzerland Luzern

Author  Fu Qian (Beijing)

Translator  Jin Zi(Beijing)

“Luzern is elegant, quiet. Clear water patted the river gently, soft water flowing in my feet ... ..."

--Victor Hugo

Perhaps the memory of Hugo's memory of Lucerne's poetry in Switzerland, perhaps the melody of Richard Wagner's "Nürnberg singer", may be a lot of longing for Lucerne so that in the fall of 2017 I would like to Came to Lucerne. Iuzem, formerly known as Luzern, is located on the northern shores of Lake Lucerne and is one of the most beautiful and renaissance cities in Switzerland.

Mention Lucerne, my first thought is beautiful, elegant, quiet, music, romance, extreme, luxurious ... ... Luzerne charm comforts the hearts of many literary and art masters, the beautiful Lake Lucerne left the German composer Wagner The love affair and the reincarnation of "Nürnberg's new singer", "Twilight of the gods" and opera "Tristan and Isolde", "Siegfried" pastoral symphony. The French writer Hugo lived in a building well preserved to the north bank of the Reuss River, while the former home of composer Wagner was on Lake Lucerne with a Richard Wagner Road named after him.

Beethoven left a slight moonlight here; Tolstoy's novel "Lucerne"; Picasso created a large number of works here, so with Picasso's collection of works; the American writer Mark Twain pen was born " "The French writer Dumas wrote:" Lucerne is the jewel in the most beautiful clam shells in the world. "Their stories and creations add even more romance to Lucerne. There are many celebrities living in Lucerne, not being gazetteed by books, and Lucerne offers such a modesty in such a modest way that the great people here are just ordinary citizens. I think they have done a bit too far in this regard, Victor Hugo et al's home should also be publicized, but compared to the kind of common we do not even wantonly publicize the celebrity's former residence of various colors, here indifferent Way more comfortable. In fact, it is because of this indifference, will attract the true masters to live quietly.

Lucerne's City Insignia The Lion Monument is a must-see for tourists, designed by the Danish sculptor Tribalsen to commemorate the 786 Swiss mercenaries who sacrificed their lives during the French Revolution to protect French King Louis XVI and his family . The lion, 10 meters long and 3 meters high, fell to the ground with pain and a broken spear stuck to the shoulder. The lion is so full of people sighing Helpless, a city, a lion, a country, countless wars, a pile of scars, so wrapped around, intermittent access to the history of Switzerland. Switzerland, once a particularly poor place, can not protect itself but is hired to intervene in others. It is hard to refuse to fight life by living. After several hundred years of cruel war training, the Swiss have developed a rare Loyalty. Therefore, the Pope never to personal defender carefully selected, only one request: the Swiss soldiers. Now, with the exception of the Pope, Switzerland has long failed to send mercenaries to other places. This is an awakening in the pool of blood and self-reflection in shame. After all, they are honest people. Once they understand they are completely cut off. Not only are they no longer fighting for others, they themselves do not fight, they simply and completely refuse the war, so they have chosen neutrality. Since then, people are making guns, but they make watches, until the smoke finally dispersed, people take a closer look, only the pointer set by Switzerland, walk in the world's wrist.

A city, because of people, has a story. Lucerne can be said that the story is piled up, it is fascinating, absolutely not only due to the eternal history, but also the accumulation of 839 years, creating its historical depth. A stroll through Lucerne always feels the time is left in the ancient, stone-covered paths connecting the ancient city walls with medieval buildings set in the shade of the greenery, as seen from the distant past. Lucerne beauty and beauty in the secluded; I can enjoy its history latitude and longitude, as the footsteps into the gap between ancient and modern, walking in the streets, you will feel slow time, trance Adagio fell into the ancient city Old time. Every day in Lucerne, I read through the memory of literary and artistic landscapes. I carefully searched for Lucerne by Zhu Ziqing, visited the scenes of Xu Zhimo's words, and learned Wagner's rich and full love story. Not ever.

Many of Switzerland's most famous cities are built on a water-by-water basis and have a similar pattern: a large river crosses the city and rivers and lakes converge, and the city thrives at the confluence of river and lake, as is Lucerne. In addition to water here, another big temptation is the mountain, the towering Mount Pilatus in the vicinity of Lucerne times the first stretch. Against the background of the snow-capped mountains, Lucerne on the water's edge is even more charming and charming with a unique atmosphere. The Carles River divides Lucerne into new and old districts. There are seven bridges on the river. One of them is the oldest wooden bridge in Europe. It was built in 1333 and is about 200 meters long. It is called the Cabel Bridge. This song and song of the old wooden bridge, near a plump ancient water tower, inverted with a pair of children, the ancient bridge has a top-like porch, gallery divided into two sections, near the tower a section of low and narrow, that section But suddenly high up, as if irrelevant to each other, walked from the bridge and found an old wooden bridge. The top of the bridge is decorated with 120 antique paintings, each with a Germanic poem that describes the history of the Swiss Confederation and Luzern. Cabel bridge and towering Pilatus steep mountains, Lucerne has become the eternal background.

Lucerne's hill, there is a glacial park, gradually formed from the glacier period of the Earth, the Alps snow is not the end of the year, the more the more heap. Gradually ice in the bottom of the formation, the bottom of the layer gradually slide down, along the mountain, to the valley flow to blend in Lake Lucerne. When the glacier moves, it encounters the large amount of melting and melting water of the ice in summer and ice, leaving many ice-cold landforms on the ground. The glacial park is named after such relics. Although standing here blankly, but then the scene can still be drawn in front of us, and our kind of human nature, but it is too fine. Lake Lucerne calm and deep lake, with the passage of time and changes in light, the lake changes a different color, bright golden, fantasy silvery white, mysterious purple. On the lake, the white cruise ship swaying gently with the wind, sitting in the bow of the boat breeze blowing, Lucerne city walls, bridges and cathedrals, Mount Pilatus can be appreciated from any angle, the mountain Lake color is so harmonious. When the white clouds float in the shade of the sun, the flimsy tulle floats up and the surface of the lake is rippling. As the shores of buildings are shrouded in shimmery, the lake is vividly reflected, and the picturesque scenery is illusory. Lucerne Lake Festival every year at the KCL Lucerne Cultural Convention Center, will be played Wagner "Nürnberg singer" melody, Lucerne with 21st century modernization, but also more unique medieval beauty and vitality and vitality.

Lucerne is a watch city, no matter go in that street, looked up is the watch shop. Inspired by the windows, excellence, the pursuit of the ultimate Swiss, the incredible creativity all dumped to the watch, wherever they want, try their best to do it. After a hundred years, did not give the crown of the clock to others, fashion and art never divorced, fashion is a part of art, art is the inspiration and origin of fashion, the art of Swiss watches, to present is inventive, dazzling bold, at the same time Tough lasting, enduring. The eighties of last century, Japan and Hong Kong electronic watches on the Swiss watch, causing a great impact and the market, although the Swiss watch industry has also developed a quartz watch, liquid crystal watch, but the electronic timing technology is inevitably the natural enemy of mechanical timing technology, It's convenient, accurate, cheap has constituted the traditional mechanical watch ridicule. On the surface, mechanical watches will be ridiculed electronic watches with their own history, the brand, but this ridicule is only an ethical, generational vent, and the electronic watch for the mechanical watch ridicule, it seems contrary to the ethical program, it is A historical necessity. If a watchmaker a hundred years ago underground spirit, will not be satisfied with the colleagues behind, that look, like the last batch of Greek tragedy actors, or the last batch of late Tang poets, confused eyes. Their outstanding achievements have left their descendants room for creation and I really do not know who to complain about.

Capel wood bridge on the outside, planted with colorful geranium flowers, from afar, Capello Covered Bridge as a red streamers, lie in the clear Reuss River, with the leisurely water under the bridge White Swan , Black ducks embraced each other to form an exceptionally moving beautiful image. Beautiful and secluded never come away, they are in the Lake Lucerne, I can not use the industrial and modern standards to measure the plants and trees here, because they are a totally different world. You never forget it, because it reflects your longings, extravagance or extremes, all presented by it, the way your dreams look.

Luzern has been loved since ancient times, not only has the picturesque natural landscape, but also the profound cultural accumulation. It allows any feeling of its traditional culture and modern elements complement each other's charm. Tranquil lakes, medieval cobbled streets, lofty snow-capped mountains, Lucerne with all the elements of the Swiss landscape album, gives a deep impression, the combination of movement, rigidity and softness, is a clean and subtle beauty, more humane rhyme, let Heart quiet. Lucerne, every moment, every point of view, presents a different beauty, one eye will always stay in the deepest memory. Perhaps no place, more romantic than here, more than here, I love.