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欧米茄最新陶瓷超霸,又是收藏界种子选手!

2018-03-20 20:45:04


本文由W&W专业腕表测评网站出品

发条鱼原创翻译


The "(Color) Side Of The Moon" has become a popular phrase at Omega ever since the original Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon (with its sexy black ceramic case) made a splash a few years ago at Baselworld. Omega has eagerly attempted to keep the colored ceramic case trend going with a series of different executions. Even Seamaster Planet Ocean dive watches are available in black or blue ceramic cases. The Omega Speedmaster Blue Side Of The Moon is the newest ceramic Speedmaster for 2017 – and actually the only new ceramic model. The official (full) name for the watch is long as per typical Omega practice and is the Omega Speedmaster Blue Side Of The Moon Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph Moonphase. 


自从几年前的超霸月之暗面(带有酷炫的黑色陶瓷表壳)在巴塞尔世界大会上引起轰动之后,“月之(颜色)面”已经成为欧米茄的流行语。 欧米茄热切地试图通过一系列不同的设计来引领彩色陶瓷表壳的潮流。即使海马宇宙潜水腕表也有黑色或蓝色的陶瓷表壳。 欧米茄超霸谧月之蓝腕表是2017年最新的陶瓷超霸,实际上也是是唯一的新式陶瓷设计。 官方给这枚手表取得全称非常长,跟欧米茄的每一款经典腕表如出一辙。这个全称就是欧米茄超霸系列月相至臻天文台计时腕表,“月之幽蓝”腕表。



Rather than focus on the standard Speedmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph with the in-house made caliber 9900 movement, this new ceramic Speedmaster is based on the Omega Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph Moonphase with the in-house made caliber 9904 which I have done an aBlogtoWatch review on here. The Blue Side Of The Moon is more or less the same blue Speedmaster Moonphase watch I reviewed, but with an elegant, rich blue ceramic case.  This is good for fans of the hue, which has been very popular over the last few years in anything from sport to dress watches and everything in between.


这款全新的陶瓷超霸系列腕表没有专注于自产9900机芯,而是采用欧米茄超霸同轴计时码表月相配备自制机芯9904,我之前还在aBlogtoWatch 专门做过介绍。这款谧月之蓝与我之前评测的蓝色超霸月球表差不多,但这款却有着优雅的蓝色陶瓷表壳。这对于喜欢有颜色的腕表的粉丝来说是个很大的惊喜,在过去的几年中,从运动到正装手表带颜色的腕表都是非常受欢迎的。



Recall that Omega uses ceramic for this Speedmaster Moonphase's case, pushers, bezel, and dial. Even the moon phase indicator disc is said to be in blue ceramic. The mixture of flat finishes and the contrast between the blue and the 18k white gold hour markers and hands is lovely. This isn't the ceramic Speedmaster for everyone, but I think the Blue Side Of The Moon has the potential for some cult status in a few years given its distinctive and different, yet altogether familiar looks.


再看一眼这款谧月之蓝,从表壳、表冠到表圈,甚至是月相指示盘都是蓝色陶瓷制成。平整的打磨设计、蓝色表盘点缀18k白金时标和指针,形成强烈对比,非常可爱。这款表是限量的,但是我认为这款表在未来几年会有一些升值空间,因为其非常独特,完全不同于其他几款同系列腕表。



Remember as well that the blue dial and bezel style are different on the Blue Side Of The Moon Speedmaster Moonphase versus the steel-cased one that I previously reviewed and linked to above. Whereas the dial on the steel model is a polished sunray metallic blue, you get a more matte, deep blue given the blue ceramic dial of this model. I personally think that the Blue Side Of The Moon will be the version most people prefer – when trying to figure out what blue Speedmaster to get.


还有一点就是,这款表的蓝色表盘和表圈的风格和我们以前评测过的那款精钢表壳的蓝色月球表不一样。精钢款的表盘是经过抛光打磨的带有蓝色金属质感,而这款谧月之蓝的陶瓷表盘则表现为哑光深蓝色。我个人认为,谧月之蓝将成为大多数人更喜欢的版本,如果他们去官网找欧米茄超霸蓝色月球的话。

 


The 44.25mm wide case is large but comfortable. Omega does an excellent job at rendering ceramic to look like polished metal. The trick is replicating the contrasting polished and brushed finishing on the case – just as is done with metal cases. This is what makes the original Dark Side Of The Moon Speedmaster so popular, and why now in blue it looks just as lovely.


44.25的表壳尺寸非常大,不过佩戴起来很舒适。欧米茄非常擅长将陶瓷打磨出抛光金属质感,诀窍就是在表壳上重现抛光和磨砂打磨,就像打磨金属一样,两种不同打磨方式呈现出来的效果相结合就能产生金属质感。这也是原版“月之暗面”如此受欢迎的原因,如今呈现蓝色的金属质感打磨看起来也非常漂亮。



As we have covered the core Speedmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph Moonphase watch before, I am not going to revisit the movement or the watch's functionality in detail. Recall that the caliber 9904 movement adds a moon phase indicator to the chronograph and date complications. The symmetry of the movement's dial layout is impressive and something to desire. Notice how each of the sub-dials has two hands. This is really one of the most interesting and appealing modern Omega movements to date. It, of course, has a co-axial escapement, METAS certification, 4Hz operational frequency, and 60 hours of power reserve. The movement can be easily admired through the caseback's sapphire crystal window.


由于我们之前已经讨论过了“月之暗面”,所以我不打算再在这里详细讨论机芯或手表的功能。简单回顾一下,9904机芯在计时功能和双日历的基础上增加了月相显示窗口。表盘的布局非常具有对称美感,给人留下深刻印象。还要注意到每个小表盘有两个指针。这是迄今为止最有趣和最有吸引力的欧米茄自产机芯。 当然,它有一个同轴擒纵机构,通过瑞士联邦计量研究院(METAS)的至臻天文台认证,4Hz振频和60小时动力储备。还可以通过透底蓝宝石表底欣赏到机芯运转。



Omega matches this watch with a blue alligator strap. I do think however, that if you are clever, you could pair the Blue Side Of The Moon with a brown or possibly a deep gray strap as well. Omega's struggle will be to recapture collector's hearts who originally fell in love with the Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon, and have them put down the same money on the admittedly similar but not as innovative-feeling Blue Side Of The Moon. In blue, the watch adds a legitimately delicious new flavor, but at the price of a very fine delicacy.


欧米茄用蓝色鳄鱼皮表带搭配这蓝色全陶瓷表壳。不过我认为,如果你聪明的话,可以搭配一条棕色或者深灰色的表带。 欧米茄的野心将是夺回最初爱上月之暗面的收藏家的心,并让他们将相同的金钱放在公认的与月之暗面非常相像但并没有多大创新的谧月之蓝上。将超霸月球表设计成蓝色,创造出另一种优雅迷人的气质,并且价格也非常诱人。



Omega continues to excite us with fashionable variations of their nicest products (such as a blue ceramic Speedmaster Moonphase), but the question remains if the current average Omega consumers want something a bit more conservative from the brand. Omega guys tend to be the type who save up for a really nice Omega, even if their typical budget is limited. They can't get every pretty Speedmaster or Planet Ocean variation that comes out – even if they want to.


欧米茄继续以其最好的产品(例如这款蓝色陶瓷表圈的谧月之蓝)做时尚的设计改变,给我们带了很多惊喜。但问题是现在的普通欧米茄消费者是否想要品牌更保守一些。欧米茄想将自己的品牌做到最好,即使很明显他们的预算是有限的。就算他们想要,他们也不可能让每款超霸或者海洋宇宙都遗世独立。



With that said, Omega does need new model variation each year – I just wish it didn't have to cost so much to spice up your collection while enjoying a familiar look and a great tool watch. The Omega Speedmaster Blue Side Of The Moon Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph Moonphase is the reference 304.93.44.52.03.001 and has a retail price of 11,700 CHF.


有了这个说法,欧米茄确实每年都需要出新款式,但我不希望它花费太多精力在满足消费者的收藏需要上,当我们都能欣赏到相似外观的工具表。这款腕表的参数是304.93.44.52.03.001,零售价格为11,700瑞士法郎。


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