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天梭有史以来最高颜值手表,重点是不贵好买!

2022-07-17 15:06:48


本文由W&W专业腕表测评网站出品

发条鱼原创翻译


when it comes to affordable Swiss-made chronographs, it’s not exactly a crowded space – particularly for mechanical options costing less than $1000. This is largely due to the fact that staying inside this threshold is impossible for Valjoux-made calibers – essentially the industry’s most widely adopted, and most economical chronograph standard. But for brands like Tissot, their access to the broad spectrum of manufacturing resources in the Swatch portfolio has made them a prime contender for lowering the barrier of entry for Swiss-made automatics  – and that includes chronographs, thanks to the C01.211 movement found in the Tissot V8 Automatic Chronograph. 


当谈到平价瑞士造计时码表时,并没有很多选择,尤其是价格低于1000美元的机械表。这在很大程度上是由于Valjoux制造的机芯不可能在这个价格门槛之内,而这实质上是业内使用最广泛,最经济的计时标准。 但对于像天梭这样的品牌来说,他们在斯沃琪投资组合中拥有广泛的生产资源,这使得他们成为入门级瑞表的主要竞争者,当然也包括计时码表,这要归功于天梭V8自动计时码表搭载的C01.211机芯。



Unlike the majority of Tissot’s automatic chronograph options, which utilize a 3-6-9 register layout, the V8 is framed with the 6-9-12 layout, similar to the famed Lemania 5100 caliber. But the layout isn’t the only thing that the V8’s C01.211 movement has in common with Lemania. In fact, the movement itself was designed along many of the same parameters – utility, cost-effectiveness, and reliability. These were all characteristics that made the 5100 the movement of choice for applications spanning military, space, and motorsport, which has deservedly earned it somewhat of a status in watchmaking lore.


与大多数天梭自动计时码表不同,大多数天梭计时码表采用3-6-9的套准版式,V8采用6-9-12的版面设计,类似于著名的Lemania 5100机芯。 但是布局并不是V8的C01.211机芯与Lemania5100唯一相似的地方。事实上,机芯本身是根据许多相同的参数设计的,效用、成本效益和稳定性。这些都是使5100成为跨越军事,太空和赛车运动首选机芯的优势,这在制表业当之无愧地赢得了一定的地位。



That being said, let’s remember that the Lemania 5100 was far from a nice-looking movement – reliable, yes, but finished like a late-seventies Defender (which is to say, hardly at all). Introduced in the late aughts, the C01.211 follows this spartan, function-over-form approach, but with a few more modern embellishments. Like the Lemania, which pioneered the use of plastic parts in the name of economy, the 15-jeweled C01.211 does the same, while also borrowing some of the advances in movement production (ie: more automated processes in assembly) 


我们可以说Lemania 5100远远称不上漂亮、精准,的确是这样,不过要知道这是在七十年代末制造出来的机芯。(那时候,几乎没有此类机芯问世),后期引入的C01.211遵循这种斯巴达模式(鱼:原本形容一种不求名利的生活方式,这里应该是指纯粹的功能至上,不加修饰),功能胜于外观的方法,不过还是加入一些更现代的装饰。像Lemania一样以经济实惠的名义开创了塑料零件的使用领域,镶嵌15颗宝石的C01.211也是如此,并同时借鉴了机芯生产的先进科技.(即更多的自动化装配工艺)



Enough about the C01.211, though. While the movement and the price point combine to create a compelling offering, what’s of perhaps equal (or greater) importance is what’s on the outside, and thankfully, the V8 is a nice-looking sports chronograph that manages to toe the line between ‘modern’ and ‘classic’ (gotta love those T-shaped pump pushers) 


尽管如此,C01.211还是有不足的地方,虽然机芯和价格相结合创造了一个引人注目的产品,但是手表所呈现的外观的可能是相同的(人们更关注的是可能手表外观)。好在V8是一款非常漂亮的运动计时码表,表款设计兼具经典和现代元素(最喜欢爱那些T型设计的指针顶部)。



The dial itself exhibits some nice texture and depth – like the faceted hands which match the hourly indices, or the subtly grained dial surface, which contrasts a set of polished circular surrounds on the 12 and 6:00 registers. There’s also a noble attempt at producing symmetry (virtually impossible for a 3-register chronograph) between the running seconds sub-dial at 9:00 and the wordmark and date at 3:00. Both combine to create a slight degree of negative space that, at a glance, almost looks like a bi-compax chronograph, which is a cool effect.


表盘的设计本身表现出一种很好的质感和深度,例如与小时指标相匹配的多面形指针,又或是颗粒质感的表盘、12点和6点方向的2个圆形小表盘的表圈都经过抛光处理。 在9:00的小秒盘和3:00的日期窗口之间,尝试了一种新颖的设计来制造对称性(对称感对于三眼计时是很难实现的)。 而天梭将小秒盘和日期窗口两者相结合,创造了一个微小的负面空间,一眼看去就像bi-compax计时码表,确实是很酷的效果。(鱼:就是将日期窗口的字体颜色和背景、窗口形状设计成和小秒盘一样,倒没有他说的那么玄乎,不过乍一看还是有点对称感的。)



Despite carrying a 45mm diameter, the V8 Chronograph still feels relatively well-proportioned – thanks in part to its relatively short 45mm lug-to-lug distance. It’s also thick, but not overly so – the latter of which is a well-documented characteristic of the Valjoux-built chronograph movements. Seeing as it’s been less than ten years since the C01.211 first started appearing in Tissot watches, it’s a little too early to speak for its long-term lifespan, but simple, affordable options like the V8 Automatic series should go a long way towards solidifying the movement’s place in manufacture history.


尽管手表尺寸达到45mm,V8计时码表的感觉还是比较匀称的,这部分要归功于它相对较短的表耳间距离。这款表也很厚实,但又不过分笨重。这是Valjoux生产的计时机芯的一个普遍特征。从天梭手表第一次使用C71.211到现在还不足十年,所以现在谈论它的使用寿命还为时过早,不过v8系列为我们提供了更简单实惠的选择,必将走得更远,这将牢牢稳定其在机芯制造史上的地位。



The Tissot V8 Automatic Chronograph is available in three dial variations – black, white, and blue, and either on a leather strap or a bracelet. Variants with the leather strap start at $895. 


天梭V8自动计时码表有三种表盘款式:黑色,白色和蓝色,都可以配备皮表带或刚带。皮表带的款式起价为895美元。(鱼:方便你们找表款给你们封面图的型号:T1064271103100)


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